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Beauty and health

In a drugstore behind beauty

Космецевтика – a new direction in cosmetology. Kosmetsevtichesky preparations are effective in cases when the simple cosmetics appears powerless: they pacify угревую a rash, cope with a redness, smooth wrinkles, erase pigmentation.

Any more cosmetics, yet a medicine

 

Космецевтикой medical creams which contain especially active components getting into deep layers of a skin are called. Sell them in drugstores or establishments of a cosmetology orientation because of what there was a second name – chemist's cosmetics.

 

Their working out is connected with the theory of the photoageing which has been put forward in the mid-eighties years of the last century. As it was found out, the skin withers not only owing to natural process, but also under the influence of Uf-radiation. Soon scientists have opened ability ретиноидов (vitamin A derivatives), used exclusively in dermatology to restore a skin after photodamages. These and other active substances began to include in preparations in enough high concentration – big, than in usual cosmetics, but smaller, than in medicines. Base components космецевтики (from words "cosmetics" and "pharmacy"), except ретиноидов, today are fruit acids, депигментанты (decolouring means) and противоэритемные products (means against skin reddening). About them also we will talk.

 

Cosmetology gold

 

In 1986 the American researchers have found out, that at daily drawing of 0,05 % третиноина (derivative vitamin A) there is a restoration of the skin damaged by Uf-radiation – in particular, атрофичный эпидермис is replaced with the normal. Today ретиноиды became the best rejuvenating means, them name cosmetology gold. They make active collagen synthesis, clarify pigmentation, cope угревой with a rash. But their use demands care – at a sensitive skin there can be an irritation, especially after stay on the sun. To prevent complications, into cosmetics enter extracts of green tea, a bark of a pine, a camomile, a calendula, and also sun-protection means are recommended. Ретиноевая the cosmetics is counter-indicative to those who accepts the preparations raising a photosensitization of a skin (тетрациклин, сульфаниламиды, тиазиды and so forth), to pregnant women as vitamin A can negatively affect a fruit.

 

Fruit palette

 

The arsenal of fruit acids is great, but are more often used гликолевая, lemon, dairy, apple, grape. Under their influence the substances fastening become horny cages are dissolved, collagenic fibres are updated, clarified pigmentation. As a matter of fact, there is a superficial peeling.

 

Such creams are good for a fat skin as at отшелушивании pores are cleaned and eels disappear. They are shown also to owners dry, but слабочувствительной skin. However after use of preparations vulnerability of a skin to solar beams raises and keeps about 12 weeks. Therefore it is necessary to protect a skin from the sun.

The maintenance of fruit acids varies. In cosmetics of a class a mass market concentration cannot exceed 10 %. If in a preparation it is more than fruit acids, it apply under the control of the doctor.

 

Cautiously with bleaching

 

Sun influence, type of a skin, liver disease – only some reasons of various infringements of pigmentation (among which freckles, хлоазмы, senile stains). An effective bleaching component is гидрохинон. It is a part of creams in concentration of 2-4 % and demands the cautious reference. At long application гидрохинона can develop охроноз, accompanied by skin dimness. Гидрохинон it is capable to be soaked up in blood, therefore it cannot be applied at pregnancy and feeding by a breast. Extracts руты, bearberries, parsley are considered as more safe. However they are less effective.

 

Vitamin C for a skin

 

Reddening of a skin in the field of the person (эритема), сеточка the expanded vessels (купероз) can arise because of influence of overcooling, Uf-radiation, bad quality cosmetics and so forth In these cases means with the vitamin C, possessing vasoconstrictive, anti-inflammatory and противоотечным action will come to the aid. Unfortunately, vitamin C is not developed by a human body, and with its food usually arrives insufficiently. The Integument sharply reacts to shortage of vitamin C as from it it first of all is borrowed. Using products with this vitamin (citrus, a black currant, tomatoes) and applying corresponding cosmetics, can help the skin. In the list of the plants, helping to struggle with a redness in the field of the person, – иглица, a hawthorn, a cypress, a bark of some kinds of a mimosa, etc.

 

Beauty – inside

 

Космецевтика can be not only for external application, but also inside. Such means are called нутрикосметикой and have the different form (capsules, tablets, pills), but an essence at all one: influence on a skin, hair, nails not outside, and from within. Often them apply in a complex with means to external application (creams, gels, whey). Influence on a skin and an organism «from two parties» strengthens medical and aesthetic effect.

 

How to use

 

To cosmetics with the medical status, than more rigid demands are made to the usual. Its safety should be proved not only special laboratory, but also clinical researches. To use active cosmetics follows courses, observing some rules. It is not necessary to apply means of a different orientation simultaneously. If disturb купероз and wrinkles at first it is necessary to cope куперозом, and then to get medical cosmetics for a rejuvenation. About all nuances of application космецевтики it is necessary to consult with дерматокосметологом, as a last resort – to the adviser at purchase.

 

Svetlana YELISEYEV